diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
index 4f40955..b52ccb6 100644
--- a/README.md
+++ b/README.md
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-# walkietalkie
+# Walkietalkie
 
 Repo for Arduino + NRF24L based walkie talkie.
 
@@ -7,15 +7,16 @@ Repo for Arduino + NRF24L based walkie talkie.
 
 
 ## NOTES:
--Electret MIC has polarity, check which leg goes to the metal can casing, thats your ground or minus
--led, electrolytic caps and IC(lm386) have polarity too!
--JMIC can be two pin jumper (second and third pin are to store your jumpers 'jumper block')
--All jumpers are optional, you can just bridge them with wire or not
--3.3v smd regulator is optional (ts actually routed to the top of the pcb in case you want to power an extra wemos board for example)
--clipping transistor Q1 is a BC337 NPN, you can replace it with any common transistor, mind the pinout though (Collector-Base-Emitter)! 
--default power is 9v battery, but these are shitty and run out quick. Just power the arduino nano with a powerbank through its mini	 usb port.
--the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA is heavy, there are tiny holes in the top of the pcb for you to solder some stabelizer wires from to the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA (for example the legs of a LED you cut off).
--theres a 'prototype' area at the top of the board ('under' the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA) of 2x6 pins. In case you need to attach an extra tactile switch or so.
+* Electret MIC has polarity, check which leg goes to the metal can casing, thats your ground or minus.
+* BUG: If you want to use Voice AND Data/Line audio functionality, make sure you make your micorphone detachable (more on in the howto build).
+* LED, electrolytic caps and IC(lm386) have polarity too!
+* J-MIC can be two pin jumper (second and third pin are to store your jumpers 'jumper block')
+* All jumpers are optional, you can just bridge them with wire or not
+* 3.3v smd regulator is optional (ts actually routed to the top of the pcb in case you want to power an extra wemos board for example)
+* clipping transistor Q1 is a BC337 NPN, you can replace it with any common transistor, mind the pinout though (Collector-Base-Emitter)! 
+* default power is 9v battery, but these are shitty and run out quick. Just power the arduino nano with a powerbank through its mini	 usb port.
+* the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA is heavy, there are tiny holes in the top of the pcb for you to solder some stabelizer wires from to the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA (for example the legs of a LED you cut off).
+* theres a 'prototype' area at the top of the board ('under' the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA) of 2x6 pins. In case you need to attach an extra tactile switch or so.