@ -5,8 +5,38 @@ Repo for Arduino + NRF24L based walkie talkie.
## SOFTWARE
## NOTES:
### Arduino IDE
Now, Arduino can be had to deal with, in short:
* Install the Arduino IDE on your operating system of choice and verify it works with a random arduino board you have lying around.
* Before everything, make sure you have removed the Arduino Nano from the walkie talkie pcb before upoading/programming/flashing the arduino sketch.
* Install the CH34x driver for your operating system (the provided arduino nano is a clone, using the CH34xxxx serial to usb chip instead of the official FTDIxxxx chip,'x' standig for a random number)
* In the arduino IDE choose: Tools > Arduino Nano
* In the arduino IDE choose: Tools > Processor > ATMega328P (old bootloader)
* In the arduino IDE select the right port to your arduino: Tools > Port > ??? (depending on your operating system this will differ...mac: cu.usbmodemxxxxx, linux: ttyUSBx, windows: COMx, where x is an arbitrairy number)
If you are able to compile and upload the *Arduino > File > Examples > 01.Basics > Blink* 'sketch' your are good. If not try again.
### Libraries
Walkie talkie uses external recources called 'Libraries', furthermore, this application uses slightly modified libraries in order to work at all. Before flashing the walkie talkie code you need to put these modified libraries in the right place:
* Linux: put libraries in:
~/arduino/libraries
* OSX: put libiraries in:
~/Documents/Arduino/libraries
* Windows: ...
## HARDWARE
### NOTES:
* Electret MIC has polarity, check which leg goes to the metal can casing, thats your ground or minus.
* BUG: If you want to use Voice AND Data/Line audio functionality, make sure you make your micorphone detachable (more on in the howto build).
* LED, electrolytic caps and IC(lm386) have polarity too!
@ -20,9 +50,9 @@ Repo for Arduino + NRF24L based walkie talkie.
## BOM (rev 2.5)
### Bill Of Materials (rev 2.5)
### Resistors
#### Resistors
R1 - 10k
R2 - 47k
R3 - 10K
@ -32,12 +62,12 @@ R6 - 10K
R7 - 390 Ohm (or 330??)
R8 - 100 Ohm
### Jumpers
#### Jumpers
J-SPK
J-VOX
J-MIC
### Capacitors
#### Capacitors
C0 - 470uF (on NRF + and - powerrails)
C1 - 4.7uF
C2 - 2.2uF
@ -46,7 +76,7 @@ C4 - 2.2uF
optional: 2x tantalum 1uF (C5 and C6 for 3.3 power regulator)
### Rest
#### Rest
1x Vertical tactile switch
2x 3.5mm jack input
1x speaker
@ -64,11 +94,11 @@ optional: 2x tantalum 1uF (C5 and C6 for 3.3 power regulator)
1x NRF24L01+ PA + LNA + Antenna
1x Arduino Nano
## TOOLS
### TOOLS
+pliers is also... handy!
(+6cm of isolated solid core wire for speaker!)
## BUILDGUIDE
### BUILDGUIDE
(notice: colors of used components can vary from yours depending on using 4 or 5 band resistors for example or the weird short header pins used in this tutorials arduino mount.)
-Solder all the header pins to the arduino nano, all the long ends facing downwards
@ -112,7 +142,7 @@ Done!
## BUGS
### BUGS
LED holes are a bit small....ket tiny tiny leds.
ppt button holes are bit too fiddly .small
c3 holes are tight
@ -123,7 +153,7 @@ c3 holes are tight
-becuase of c4 lcd doesnt really fit (also because of c0)
## TROUBLESHOOTING
### TROUBLESHOOTING
NRF24L01+ PA+LNA
-there are a plethora of NRF24L01+ PA+LNA modules on the market. Shielded, unshielded, clones, clones of clones etc. Most people had problems with power, requiring a dedicated 3.3v power supply and shielding (wrap your module in cling film and then tinfoil). My batch had a faulty antenna (more on that later) but other than that just needed the capacitor over the power rails and actually performed worse with a special 3.3v power supply (the option is there on the pcb if you are the unlucky one).
