@ -7,15 +7,16 @@ Repo for Arduino + NRF24L based walkie talkie.
## NOTES:
## NOTES:
-Electret MIC has polarity, check which leg goes to the metal can casing, thats your ground or minus
* Electret MIC has polarity, check which leg goes to the metal can casing, thats your ground or minus.
-led, electrolytic caps and IC(lm386) have polarity too!
* BUG: If you want to use Voice AND Data/Line audio functionality, make sure you make your micorphone detachable (more on in the howto build).
-JMIC can be two pin jumper (second and third pin are to store your jumpers 'jumper block')
* LED, electrolytic caps and IC(lm386) have polarity too!
-All jumpers are optional, you can just bridge them with wire or not
* J-MIC can be two pin jumper (second and third pin are to store your jumpers 'jumper block')
-3.3v smd regulator is optional (ts actually routed to the top of the pcb in case you want to power an extra wemos board for example)
* All jumpers are optional, you can just bridge them with wire or not
-clipping transistor Q1 is a BC337 NPN, you can replace it with any common transistor, mind the pinout though (Collector-Base-Emitter)!
* 3.3v smd regulator is optional (ts actually routed to the top of the pcb in case you want to power an extra wemos board for example)
-default power is 9v battery, but these are shitty and run out quick. Just power the arduino nano with a powerbank through its mini usb port.
* clipping transistor Q1 is a BC337 NPN, you can replace it with any common transistor, mind the pinout though (Collector-Base-Emitter)!
-the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA is heavy, there are tiny holes in the top of the pcb for you to solder some stabelizer wires from to the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA (for example the legs of a LED you cut off).
* default power is 9v battery, but these are shitty and run out quick. Just power the arduino nano with a powerbank through its mini usb port.
-theres a 'prototype' area at the top of the board ('under' the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA) of 2x6 pins. In case you need to attach an extra tactile switch or so.
* the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA is heavy, there are tiny holes in the top of the pcb for you to solder some stabelizer wires from to the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA (for example the legs of a LED you cut off).
* theres a 'prototype' area at the top of the board ('under' the NRF24L01+ PA+LNA) of 2x6 pins. In case you need to attach an extra tactile switch or so.
